If you want to make a salve, a lotion, a cream, or a massage oil, chances are you're going to start with an herbal infused oil. It's one of the most foundational preparations in herbalism ; and also a very satisfying one to make. The process is simple, but there are a few things worth considering before you dive in.
What Is an Infused Oil?
An herbal infused oil is exactly what it sounds like - plant material steeped in a carrier oil so that the oil absorbs the beneficial compounds from the herb. The result is a plant-rich oil you can use on its own as a moisturizer or massage oil, or use as the base for more complex preparations like salves, creams, and lotions.
Choosing Your Herbs
Some of the best herbs for infused oils include dandelion flower, plantain, calendula, chamomile, St. John's Wort, mugwort, and rose petals. Each brings something unique to the oil; soothing properties, skin-supportive compounds, or beautiful scent.
For this batch, I made two infusions: dandelion flowers in hemp oil and plantain in apricot oil. Both dandelion flower and plantain are wonderful for skin irritation, soothing, and moisturizing. I'll likely turn them into several different things once they're done infusing.
Something to keep in mind is to research your plant and what compounds you are going for. Is it a water soluble, alcohol soluble or oil soluble compound? Obviously, for this we are going for oil soluble (or lipophilic - oil loving).
Why I chose dandelion flower and plantain for this batch...
Dandelion flower is remarkably skin-supportive. It's rich in vitamins A, C, and E - powerful antioxidants that protect the skin from free radical damage and UV exposure, helping to keep skin healthier and more resilient over time. It also promotes collagen production, making it a natural ally for anti-aging, while its anti-inflammatory properties help calm irritation and soothe reactive skin. Add in its hydrating qualities and you have an herb that truly works on multiple levels.
Plantain is a quietly powerful herb for skin. It's well known for its ability to soothe irritation and calm inflammation, making it especially useful for itchy, reactive, or compromised skin. It also has mild antimicrobial properties and supports the skin's natural healing process; making a plantain-infused oil a wonderful choice for everyday skin care or as a base for a healing salve.
The Most Important Rule: Keep Water Out
Oil and water do not mix; and in an infused oil, moisture is your enemy. Even a small amount of water introduced into your oil can lead to mold growth and a ruined batch.
This means always use dry herbs. For flowers like dandelion, I wilt them first by placing them upside down on a drying screen to dry. (Upside down is key - this way they don't fluff up and go to seed.) I've used wilted (not 100% dry) dandelion flower and plantain for years without any mold issues. For a plant with more moisture content I would dry completely first.
Choosing Your Carrier Oil
The carrier oil you choose matters; not just for skin benefits, but for scent and feel as well.
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Hemp seed oil is rich in essential fatty acids, particularly omega-3 and omega-6 in an ideal ratio for skin. It's deeply nourishing, helps support the skin barrier, and is well-suited for irritated or inflamed skin making it a natural pairing for dandelion flower.
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Olive oil is excellent for shelf stability, but it has a strong scent that can easily overpower more delicate plants.
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Apricot kernel oil is one of my favorites. Its affordable, skin-loving, lightweight, and very mild in scent. It lets the plant shine. (My plantain-infused apricot oil smells absolutely incredible together.)
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Sunflower oil is another great mild, affordable option.
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Castor oil can be added in small amounts for thickness and deeper skin penetration.
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Jojoba oil (technically a wax) adds thickness and excellent skin benefits.
This is where you get to play and create something truly your own. Blending oils lets you dial in exactly the texture, absorption, and skin feel you want.
Methods for Infusing Oil
There are a few different approaches, and they're not all equal.
Sun infusion — Some herbalists swear by leaving jars out in the sun. In most cases, I'd skip this. Heat and light exposure can degrade your oil. The one exception? St. John's Wort - true to its summer solstice blooming, it actually benefits from sunlight to help activate and draw out its key compounds.
Water bath / double boiler / crockpot — Many people use this method, but it's not my preference. The main issues are the potential for water to be introduced into the oil, and the fact that you're infusing for hours or even days which means constantly monitoring your water levels. It's tedious and introduces unnecessary risk.
Candle warmer — This is my preferred method, and it couldn't be simpler. A basic electric candle warmer runs about $15 and maintains a low, steady heat that's perfect for oil infusions. I place a silicone trivet between the warmer and my glassware to buffer the heat even further. Then I set it and walk away.
A few safety notes for this method:
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Never seal a mason jar tightly on a heat source. Pressure can build and cause the jar to crack or worse. Instead, set the lid on without tightening the ring; any pressure will simply push the lid off. Or cover with cheesecloth to keep dust and bugs out while allowing the oil to breathe. (This open-air method works beautifully for herbs that aren't strongly aromatic. For more fragrant plants where you want to capture the scent, a loose lid is better.)
Straining Your Oil
When it's time to strain, do it while the oil is still warm. It flows much more easily. Pour through a funnel lined with fine mesh cheesecloth. Once most of the oil has drained through, you can gently squeeze the cheesecloth to get the last bit out. Just don't squeeze too hard or you'll push fine plant sediment through into your finished oil.
Final Step: Protecting Your Oil's Shelf Life
Before bottling, I add two things to every infused oil:
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Vitamin E (tocopherol) - a natural antioxidant that nourishes the skin and helps prevent the oil from going rancid
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Rosemary antioxidant extract (ROE) - helps prevent oxidation and slows the degradation of your carrier oils, significantly extending the shelf life of your finished product
These two additions are a small step that makes a big difference in how long your oil stays fresh and effective. I combine both to make up 5% of the total oil.
What's Next
Once these oils are finished infusing and strained, I'll be using them as bases for a few different preparations - likely a salve, a lotion or cream, and possibly a massage oil. I'll walk through each of those in future posts.